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Have your credit card maxed out? Are 50 with no retirement savings? Is your disposable income $10 a month? Now is not a good time to have a SW tank. Come back when you’ve got better disposable income. Time You need time to research, especially if you try advanced ideas. The amount of time it takes to learn about this hobby is incredible. Research is needed to be successful in this hobby. And it takes TIME, so just be prepared to do it. Don’t want to do the research? You’ll be much better off hiring an aquarium maintenance company to take care of your tank, although make sure you get a good one. Summary I am just trying to save you time and money and I’m also trying to save a lot of innocent, cute, adorable animals from entering the grave early. .
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GFCI Mixing electricity and water is NOT a good idea. Especially saltwater, it is a WONDERFUL conductor of electricity. If you are going to have a SW tank you NEED Ground Fault Circuit Interrupt technology on ALL plugs that go anywhere near your tank. Why? Because if you don’t, it could KILL you. Or at least shock you very badly. Make sure stuff above your aquarium, such as lights, are also on GFCI protected plugs, you will eventually knock something electrical into the tank if you stay in the hobby long enough. Want to “skip” this expense? Don’t want to pay an electrician to do this? Do you have small kids or pets that don’t know to NOT stick their hands in a SW tank? Don’t start this hobby then, it is not worth pain or even death. Money Your Saltwater tank will become a black hole for any money in the house or in your wallet. OK, maybe not that bad, but sometimes it will feel like you are taking 20 bucks, shredding it and feeding it to your $3 damsel. That is not recommended by the way! This is probably the most expensive hobby I have ever tried, although I hear traveling around the world on cruise ships is SLIGHTLY more expensive. Sometimes local fish stores will try to tell you it is a very affordable hobby and attempt to sell you a 55 gallon or 75 gallon “kit” for well under $1000, sometimes under $500. You’ll find yourself drawn back into the store to replace the “basic” equipment they sold you that doesn’t do a good job. I have spent almost $2000 on my 75 gallon tank and that is considered moderate to cheap by most SW aquarium keepers. Think you can do the hobby cheap? WRONG! Sure there are ways to reduce costs and cut corners, but if you think you can setup a 75 gallon tank for $75 bucks, it just isn’t going to happen. Disposable Income Hey wait, we’ve already talked about money right? Yes and no. Maybe you have a huge tax return to finally start that 200 gallon tank you’ve always wanted, but what about maintaining it? Pennies right? Nope! If you consider the cost of salt, test kits, electricity, replacement parts, etc, you should plan to spend at least $50-$100 a month on your tank maintaining it. Do you want to actually ADD corals and fish to your tank on a regular basis? Figure at least $100-$300 a month then.
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Go to the local aquarium to look at SW, your home/apartment is not a good place. Concern for the environment and critters While some will argue that the SW hobby is bad for the environment(Lots of materials and electricity to keep a few wild animals in your house), I feel it has a beneficial effect on the world, if done properly. You should take the time to research your choices for your SW tank so that there is minimal death to your inhabitants. Putting 10 SW fish in a 10 gallon aquarium is either going to end in the death of all the fish, or one big happy fat predatory fish. Don’t make snap purchases at fish stores/on-line before you know what it takes to take care of an animal/plant in your tank. “Finding Nemo” was a great movie, but it has resulted in a lot of dead clownfish because the people didn’t take the time to find out how to care for them. Want to have 7 tangs in a 20 gallon? Want to keep SPS corals in a deep tank with normal output lights? Do some research and find out these are BAD ideas or just keep a goldfish in a 10 gallon freshwater tank. A supportive husband/wife/partner or be single Your SW tank will take up more money and time than you can possibly expect, unless you are SUPER good at planning. If you are single, you can skip this requirement, but keep it in the back of your mind when choosing a partner. Your SW fish tank may go away when you move in together. Seriously though, this tank that is a gleam in your eye, will eat up time and money very rapidly. If your significant other is jealous of this or demands the money and time be spent better elsewhere, you should avoid this hobby. There is nothing like dropping two grand on a hobby and finding out you have to give it up one month later due to the stress it causes in your family/relationships. Space I’m not talking about having the physical space to have the tank, that is obvious. I’m talking about having a strong and level floor, plenty of GFCI electrical outlets nearby, a spot away from direct sunlight or ideally a “fish room” where you can keep all the extra equipment you need for your tank. Most apartments have weight limits for their floors and if you exceed that, your tank may come crashing down on your neighbor below. Do you live on the side of a mountain with a slope to your house? Are you thinking of putting your $1000 tank on your $20,000 antique oriental rug? Think again and buy a vase to match the rug, SW isn’t for you.
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Quick Tips to Save your Time and Money Selection of appropriate equipment is very crucial, for example, skimmers. What do I mean? Well I mean resources, time, etc. If you are lacking several of these items it is VERY likely you will fail and exit the hobby, kill a lot of wonderful creatures and have spent a lot of money in the process. So I’m here to save you time and money. I am giving you some quick tips and tricks that will help you save your precious time and money ! So lets start the list: Time A Salt water aquarium takes a LOT of time to setup and maintain. In the setup period expect to be spending at least 10 hours a week researching, building, purchasing, etc It can easily be 20-100 hours a week if you get addicted! This period can last several days to months depending on how big a setup you are going to do. When your tank is first setup with live animals/plants and is cycling(establishing a biological filter and becoming a stable tank), you will spend at least 10-20 hours a week on it, sometimes considerably more if problems develop. Even when everything is running perfectly on an established tank, you will still need to spend 10 minutes a day and 2-4 hours a week on the weekends to maintain the tank. Don’t have the time? Don’t start a tank until you do! Patience Things take time to develop in this hobby. If you find yourself changing hobbies every week or you can’t commit to anything long term, you will probably become quickly bored of this hobby and find out the $1000 setup you bought 3 months ago only sells for $100 used. If you aren’t patient, time to choose another hobby. Stable Electricity Without stable electricity your tank will crash and be very smelly. Do the lights in your house blink like Christmas tree lights? Do you live in the middle of nowhere where a slight breeze downs your electricity for weeks at a time? Then unless you want to invest a lot of money in a backup generator, you should either move or get your electricity company to give you a stable service. So in other words: move.
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A Perfect Saltwater Tank: 30 gallon tank $30 Custom Hood $20 Custom Stand $30 1 Phillips Ultralume $11 1 Cora life Actinic Blue $15 Wizard Electronic Ballast $28 (now $49 including the end caps) DIY w/d filter $30 Amiracle Prefilter $50 Eheim 1250 $69 DIY 30″ Air-driven skimmer $50 Hagen 801 power head $22 Tetra Luft G Air pump $20 Hagen 301 (circulation) $15 Ebo Jaeger 100W heater $16 20 lbs dolomite $8 Misc. Rocks $15 2 Domino Damsels $10 Total $439.00
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General Notes Quarantine Tank is Very Important Keeping a quarantine tank is especially important for saltwater tanks. It can be very difficult to treat a sick fish when it is continually being harassed by healthier fish. Also, some medications, namely copper, will kill invertebrates. You should NEVER put copper into your main tank. Contrary to popular belief, you will never be able to get all of the copper out of the tank. Also, using copper in a tank which contains live rock will decimate the life forms populating the rock, as most of them are invertebrates. Source Water is Very Important Source water for saltwater tanks is also very important. Although the water authority says that tap water is fit for human consumption, it may not be fit for your fish. Tap water typically contains chlorine and chloramines, which will kill your fish. Although these will have an immediate effect on your fish, there are usually other contaminates in tap water which need time to affect the tank. In particular, phosphates will cause massive growths of hair algae and potentially cyanobacteria outbreaks (red slime algae). Without good quality source water, your tank will not be the continuous joy you hoped it would be. Best Purifiers The best water purifiers on the market are reverse osmosis units. These, coupled with de-ionizing resins, produce water which is 98% pure. If the price of a RO/DI combination is too much, then you can always use distilled water (not spring water). However, distilled water may have been stored in copper containers which will kill invertebrates. Before you start your saltwater tank, find a good store near you. Good stores will have knowledgeable staff and exhibit a general concern about the care of the animals. If the store has few saltwater tanks, with a lot of sick or dying fish, don’t buy any fish there, even if they look healthy.
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Converting to Saltwater One of the most frequently asked questions in the news groups is how to convert from freshwater to saltwater. What equipment needs to replaced, what needs to purchased, etc.. Equipment Needed Most equipment used in freshwater can be used in a saltwater system, with a few exceptions. You should start by replacing your gravel with some sort of calcareous material. Examples include crushed coral, dolomite and aragonite. Using these types of substrate tend to help buffer the water and produce a more stable environment. Next, you need to check all your equipment for anything metal. Saltwater will rust anything except the highest grade stainless steel. There are stainless steels on the market which will rust when exposed to saltwater. Needless to say, you need to replace or get rid of anything made of metal. Filtration System The filtration system used in your freshwater system will usually be adequate for a saltwater system. However, you can use this opportunity to upgrade or change filtration mechanisms. Also, which ever type of filtration system you are using, you should add some sort of extra water circulation to the tank. Saltwater has a lower dissolved oxygen content than freshwater, so you need to keep the water in the tank moving. Actually, it needs to do more than move. You need to disrupt the surface of the water to maximize oxygen transfer with the atmosphere. Lighting The lighting you used for you freshwater system should also work for a fish-only saltwater tank. However, if you want to keep invertebrates, you will need to upgrade (more that just your lighting). Nutrition One part of a freshwater system that needs to be replaced is the food. Marine fish need varied diets. You need to supply your fish with a combination of fresh, frozen and live food. Flake food, although adequate, should not be the major portion of your fish’s diet. Changing the Water Finally, when you are ready to make the switch to saltwater, you really should replace all the water in your system. It is best to start with nitrate free water to minimize the potential for algae problems. Also, many people think that adding salt to a cycled freshwater tank will yield a cycled saltwater tank. Experience have shown this is not true. Saltwater nitrifying bacteria are different than freshwater nitrifying bacteria, so they must be cultured from scratch. As a note, nitrifying bacteria seem to be pH and temperature sensitive. So moving some gravel from a warm saltwater tank (~85F/24C) to a temperate saltwater tank
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After the tank completes cycling, it will be time for your first major water change. Although the amount of water you change is really up to you, it should be a significant portion of the water. Something like 40 to 50%, with 100% of the water not being uncommon. When changing the water, the gravel should also be cleaned. There are many commercially available gravel cleaners on the market. The chemistry of the change water should be as close to the tank’s water as possible. The pH should be within 0.2 and the temperature should be within 1-2 degrees. It is better to have the change water warmer than cooler (imagine the shock of a cold shower and you will know how your fish will react to cooler change water). Regular Maintenance Schedule After the first water change you should establish a regular maintenance schedule. Something like monthly water changes, weekly algae scrapings, and bi-weekly feedings are normal. A Note on Nutrition A note on nutrition. Saltwater fish need varied diets. Constantly feeding your fish flake food may provide it with all the necessary vitamins and minerals, but this may ultimately cause a nutrition deficiency of sorts. Alternating between cut up shrimp and clam, flake food and frozen/live brine shrimp makes a good combination. Herbivorous fish, like Yellow Tangs, also like romaine lettuce or Nori (an algae regularly sold at oriental markets) on a regular basis.
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Tank Saltwater Maintenance The cycling process will undoubtedly be the most tense time for you and your new tank. So below is a guide to the first few days and months of your tank. Monitoring the Ammonia and Nitrates in the tank Over the course of the first 4 to 6 weeks your tank will demonstrate the typical cycling process. During this critical time, you should carefully watch the ammonia and nitrites in the tank. If the fish look stressed (darting around the tank, gasping for air, or not moving at all), a partial water change might be in order. If the fish look really bad, they may have to be moved to another tank or storage location until the toxicity of the tank is reduced. You should always keep salt mix and dechlorinated water on hand for impromptu water changes. Monitoring the PH Along with monitoring ammonia and nitrites, you should keep a careful eye on the pH (you should always watch the pH, not just during the cycling process). The pH will tend to fall over time and needs to raised. The easiest way to raise the pH is through additions of sodium bicarbonate (i.e., baking soda). Mix a tablespoon or so of baking soda in a cup of dechlorinated water and slowly add it to the tank. Slowly means over the course of an hour or two. Baking soda will cause a short term drop in the pH, but will bring the pH to 8.2 over time. Water Evaporation: adding new water to tank As time marches on, water will evaporate from the tank and need to be replenished. The water that evaporates is freshwater and needs discus fish for sale to be replaced with freshwater. You should never use saltwater for makeup water (unless you want to increase the salinity of the tank). Cleaning up of Algae As the tank matures, algae will start to grow (usually around week 2 or 3). Typically brown algae, otherwise known as diatoms, will be the first algae that shows up in the tank. Brown algae will usually cover everything in the tank and need to be cleaned every week or so. With time green algae should overtake the diatoms and the brown algae will disappear all together. If it doesn’t, there might not be enough light for the green algae to out-compete the diatoms.
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Home Once you get the fish home you should set the bag in the destination tank, thus allowing the temperature to equalize. After about a half hour or so, add a 1/4 cup of tank water to the bag. Repeat this process once every 15 minutes for an hour, removing any water if the bag gets too full. Any water you remove from the bag should be disposed of. It will most likely contain parasites and other bad things. After you have the fish acclimated to your tank’s water chemistry, there are a couple of things you can do. You can place the fish directly into the main tank and hope for the best, you can give the fish a freshwater dip and then place it into the tank, or you could place the fish into a quarantine tank. The best scenario is to give the fish a freshwater dip and place it into a quarantine tank. Keep the fish in the quarantine tank for 2 weeks and watch for signs of disease. If the fish gets sick, you can medicate the quarantine tank without affecting the chemistry of the main tank. If you are going to quarantine the fish, you should acclimate the fish to the quarantine tank’s chemistry, not the main tank. If you don’t use a quarantine tank, then it is a very good idea to give the fish a freshwater bath before placing it into your main tank. The freshwater bath will cause any parasites attached onto the fish to let go and remain in the freshwater (to die a lonely death). Otherwise, parasites left to their own will reproduce very rapidly in captivity and usually infect all the fish in the tank. To give a marine fish a freshwater dip, prepare a container of dechlorinated freshwater with a similar chemistry of the destination tank. That is, make sure the pH and temperature are as close as possible to the destination tank (this is critical!) . Remove the fish from the bag and place the fish into the container for 3 to 5 minutes. Watch the fish closely for signs of stress. If the fish stops moving or begins to float, remove it immediately and place it in the destination tank (either the main or quarantine tank). In placing the fish into the freshwater bath, never pour the fish into the container. Use a Tupperware container discus fish for sale or a net to capture the fish and place it into the dip. The store water should never be introduced to the freshwater bath, or any of your tanks. This water usually contains all sorts of nasty diseases and organisms. If you put the fish into the main tank and it comes down with an illness, it should be removed to a quarantine tank immediately. Do not risk spreading the illness to the other fish in the tank (although it may already be too late).
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